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How to Make Cocido Madrileño (Madrid Chickpea and Meat Stew)

Cocido madrileño, the Madrid winter stew: chickpeas, beef, ham bone, chorizo, morcilla and vegetables, served as soup then main. Serves 6.

By the Forkful editorial team · Published

Quick answer

Soak 1¼ lb chickpeas overnight. Simmer beef shank, ham bone, bacon and chicken in cold water for 2 hours, add the chickpeas and cook 2 hours more, add potatoes, carrots and cabbage for the last 30 minutes, and chorizo and morcilla for the last 20. Serve the broth with noodles, then the chickpeas, vegetables and meats.

Prep
30 min
Cook
4 h 30 min
Total
17 h
Makes
6 servings

Total time includes 12 h of hands-off waiting (resting, rising, chilling or cooling).

Clay platter with chickpeas, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, chorizo, morcilla and boiled beef and ham, next to a bowl of golden noodle broth
Image: AI-generated illustration of the finished dish

Cocido madrileño is the traditional winter stew of Madrid: a slow pot of chickpeas, beef, ham, chicken, chorizo, morcilla and vegetables that is eaten in three courses (vuelcos). First the broth, usually with fine noodles; then the chickpeas and vegetables; finally the meats.

The Spanish reference recipes we checked share the same order: soak the chickpeas about 12 hours, simmer the meats and bones in cold water about 2 hours, add the chickpeas for about 2½ more hours, add potatoes and carrots in the last 30 minutes, and cook the chorizo and morcilla at the end (or separately, so their fat does not overload the pot). Plan an early start: this is a Sunday dish, not a weeknight one.

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Ingredients

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  • For the stew
  • 500 g dried chickpeas (about 1¼ lb), soaked 12 hours in water with a pinch of salt
  • 400 g beef shank or morcillo, in one piece (14 oz)
  • 1 beef knee bone or marrow bone
  • 1 salted ham bone or cured ham bone
  • 200 g salt pork or tocino, in one piece (7 oz)
  • 300 g chicken thighs or hen pieces (10 oz)
  • 6 liters cold water, about
  • 2 large carrots, peeled
  • 3 medium potatoes, peeled and halved
  • ½ small green cabbage, cut in wedges
  • 2 chorizos for cooking
  • 1 morcilla (blood sausage with onion)
  • 1 tbsp coarse salt, to taste
  • For the noodle soup
  • 100 g fine noodles (fideos) (about 3½ oz)

Instructions

  1. The night before, cover the chickpeas with plenty of water and a pinch of salt and soak about 12 hours. Drain.
  2. Put the beef, ham bone, salt pork, chicken and beef bones in a large pot, cover with about 6 liters of cold water and bring slowly to a boil. Skim the foam, reduce to a gentle simmer, partly cover and cook 2 hours.
  3. Add the drained chickpeas (in a mesh bag or directly) and the carrots. Bring back to a simmer and cook 2 hours more, until the chickpeas are completely tender. Add hot water if needed to keep everything covered.
  4. Add the potatoes and salt and cook 30 minutes. Cook the cabbage in a separate pot of salted water 20 minutes, then drain, so its smell does not take over the broth.
  5. Cook the chorizo and morcilla in a small pot of water for the last 20 minutes (or in the stew), so their fat does not make the broth greasy.
  6. Strain about 1.5 liters of the broth into a small pot, bring to a boil, add the noodles and cook as the package says (4–5 minutes). Serve this soup first.
  7. Serve the chickpeas and vegetables on one platter and the sliced meats and sausages on another as the main course.

Tips for the best result

  • 1Start the meats in cold water. It draws the flavor into the broth and gives a clearer result.
  • 2Never add cold water to the pot while it is cooking; add boiling water so the chickpeas do not toughen.
  • 3Cook cabbage and sausages separately for a cleaner, lighter broth.
  • 4Make it a day ahead: the next day the fat is easy to lift off and the flavors are deeper. Reheat gently.

Storage

Refrigerate the broth, chickpeas and meats separately in airtight containers for up to 4 days; reheat in a pot until steaming hot. The broth and chickpeas freeze well for up to 3 months. Leftovers are traditionally used for ropa vieja (fried with onion) and croquettes.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to soak the chickpeas?

Yes, for this recipe: 12 hours of soaking with a pinch of salt gives tender chickpeas that do not split. A pinch of baking soda in the soaking water can help if your water is hard.

Can I make cocido madrileño in a pressure cooker?

Yes. Spanish recipes for the pressure cooker (olla exprés) cook it in a fraction of the time, well under an hour at pressure after the soak. Follow your pot’s manual for exact times.

What is ropa vieja?

It is the next-day dish made from the leftover meats and chickpeas fried with onion, garlic and a little paprika.

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